Ukraine Travel Guide by Lonely Planet

Ukraine Travel Guide by Lonely Planet

Author:Lonely Planet [Planet, Lonely]
Language: eng
Format: epub
Publisher: Lonely Planet
Published: 0101-01-01T00:00:00+00:00


Eating

The Odesa restaurant scene easily rivals Kyiv’s – not only because of its sophistication or diversity, but thanks to a new phenomena that time has come to call – loud and clear – Odesa cuisine. It’s a magic stew of Russian, Ukrainian, Jewish, Moldovan and Levantine cuisines cooked up in Soviet communal kitchens and fishermen’s huts. Its main virtue is that it takes full advantage of the region’s abundance in vegetables, fruit and seafood.

Zharyu Paryu CANTEEN $

OFFLINE MAP GOOGLE MAP ( vul Hretska 45; mains 20-30uah; 8am-10pm) When lunchtime strikes, going where the local student and office-worker population find nourishment usually makes sense. This clinical self-service canteen of the factory or school variety is such a place, and with cheap and cheerful Ukrainian favourites on the menu board it’s ideal for cash-strapped nomads.

Aioli FAST FOOD

OFFLINE MAP (vul Preobrazhenska 22; set lunch 30ah; 10am-7pm; ) A hipsterishly designed cafeteria offering a set three-course menu at a dirt cheap price. No aioli detected in the ordinary home-style food – it’s just a fancy name.

Klarabara INTERNATIONAL $$

OFFLINE MAP GOOGLE MAP ( City Garden; mains 90-150uah; 9am-midnight) Tucked away in a quiet corner of the City Garden, this classy, cosy, ivy-covered cafe and restaurant is awash with antique furniture and fine art. The menu is inspired by the food people make at home in the broader Black Sea region. That means local fish, delicious vegetable stews and various kinds of khachapuri – Georgian cheese pastry. We loved the charcoal-grilled mussels.

Tavernetta ITALIAN $$

OFFLINE MAP ( 344 621; www.tavernetta.ua; vul Katerynynska 45; mains 70-100 uah; 9am-12pm; ) You’d need to hire an army of culinary detectives to find better pasta between here and Italy, but your chances would still be low. The restaurant occupies a large wooden terrace with an open kitchen, which churns out platefuls of magic – try spaghetti with local sardines. Waiters are humorous and if you speak Russian you’ll appreciate their Jewish-influenced ‘Odesa speak’. Warning: they’ll attempt to put a hilarious paper napkin on your neck, which makes serious people look like toddlers.

Kompot EASTERN EUROPEAN $$

OFFLINE MAP GOOGLE MAP ( www.compot.ua; vul Derybasivska 20; mains 60-120uah; 8am-11pm; ) Odesa’s most celebrated restaurateur Savely Libkin conjured this place out of his childhood memories, setting a trend for what is becoming known as Odesa cuisine. The simplest dishes are the best – try cutlets with potato purée and water them down with one of the eponymous kompoty, fruity drinks which housewives preserve in jars to consume in winter. The original Derybasivska outlet is way too crowded, so we prefer the other two – at vul Panteleymonivska 70 ( 345 145; 8am-11pm) by the station and at the Sea Port ( 729 3449; Left wing; 8am-11pm). All serve superb French-influenced breakfasts.

Bernardazzi ITALIAN, UKRAINIAN $$

OFFLINE MAP GOOGLE MAP ( Odessa Philharmonic Hall, vul Bunina 15; mains 60-160uah; 10am-last customer; ) Few Ukrainian restaurants have truly authentic settings but the Art Nouveau dining room of this superb Italian job, part of the eye-catching Philharmonic Hall, is the real deal.



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